Sunday, May 27, 2007

Jakarta - Not a "tourist heaven"

Well, I had my first day out in Jakarta yesterday. Up until now, I've seen pretty much none of the city apart from my hotel, the office, the road in between and a few restaurants and shopping malls we've taken taxis to. Normally, I'd head out and take a wander around by myself in the evenings, but it';s dark by the time we get back to the hotel, and besides, you can't really walk around and see stuff locally (as in, we've been advised not to by the hotel). Luckily, one of the guys here has a local friend, Joey, who promised to show us a bit of the city, so we headed off early yesterday morning to "get touristy".

When I say "headed off early", I mean we left early-ish, but then we hit a slight snag - traffic. Anyone who thinks dublin traffic is bad, should head over to SE Asia and give it a go over here. Even Beijing didn't have this many cars clogging the roads! The concept of lanes seems to equate to "whatever space is big enough to fit my car into", and traffic lights are things that happen on the major roads around the CBD. If it were just cars it'd be ok, but for every car on the road there's maybe 2-3 bikes (sometimes with 2-3 people or even whole families) that are weaving in and out between them at high speed, sometimes with inches to spare on either side. So, in between having to collect a few other people (two of Joey's friends, Nina and Ami) and having to inch our way through the traffic, it was maybe 2pm before we got into the "old city".

Once we got there, there wasn't a huge amount to be seen. It definitely isn't a "tourist friendly" area, there's a few museums to see but it isn't the type of place you'd happily wander around for hours. We hit two museums, the bank museum (which technically wasn't even open til the next day, but they let us in anyway), and another museum which seemed to consist of nothing but teak furniture - and which let us in without telling us they were closing in 15mins! Apart from that, we wandered down a few fairly run-down streets and went to an old colonial-style cafe called Cafe Batavia to get a drink (which was necessary since most of us aren't quite used to that type of heat).

After that, we headed out to Sunda Kelapa, the port area. That was interesting enough, as all of the boats were the old-style Junks which are nothing like what we get at home, and all of the loading/unloading is done manually as there's no cranes or any equipment - so you have work gangs of guys loading/unloading 50kg bags of cement or big planks of wood off trucks onto the boats.



Two of the guys we were with take their photography quite seriously though, so we spent a lot of time there as they went for the artistic shots - maybe more than us non-photo people would have been happy with. So, we wandered around the port for a few hours, then as the sun was going down, we decided to brave the traffic, go back to the hotel to freshen up, and go out for dinner and a drink or two.

Once we got to dinner, things became interesting. One of the guys, Anirudh, is a vegetarian, and we'd picked this Thai place he'd found on the internet as they were supposed to have a vegetarian-friendly menu (which is apparently really hard here). Unfortunately, when we got there, he discovered this wasn't the case, about all he could have off the menu was steamed rice, so he kicked up a big fuss. Eventually the Maitre'D called out the head chef and together they worked out a plan where he'd come up with something especially for Anirudh. The rest of us weren't quite as fussy, so we went for the usual arrangement of picking a few dishes for the center of the table and helping ourselves to a bit of each. What we got was Fantastic, and even Mr. Picky had to agree that the food was good - and cheap!

After that, it was drinks time! We headed to this bar called CJs which was supposed to have a live band, but when we got there we discovered that the "live band" was a boy-band type cover outfit who made n'sync look like talented respectable artists! The music was laughable, the drinks were expensive, but we stayed around for a good while nayway. The women were mostly pretty good looking, but the problem is that most of the bar/club scene is based around hotel bars, where a good few of the girls would be working girls trying to latch on to the rich western guests ("western" here equals "rich" - I wish!), so it was hard to tell which was which, girls there for fun or for "business". After a while the smoke was getting to Nina's eyes so we moved on to another, quieter place. where we stayed til closing time (2:30ish, same as back home). So, first real night out in JKT, was an interesting occasion!.

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